Add under cabinet lighting to existing kitchen cabinets. This unique method of wiring under cabinet lighting led eliminates destructive wall tears and minimizes the tedious work of fishing cables from the attic or basement.
- Domestic handyman
- Tools needed
- Cordless drill
- Non-contact voltage tester
- Voltage tester
- Wire stripper
under cabinet lighting led materials needed
- 1-1/8″ blade
- 1/2 inch metal flexible cable 14/2 plastic sheathed cable
- 1/2″ blade
- Cable clamp
- Fish tape
- Flexible connector
- Junction Box
- Retrofit switch box
- under cabinet lighting led
- Wire nut
The best time to install wiring for the under cabinet lighting led is during the kitchen remodeling, that is, before covering the wall with drywall. However, if you want to install under cabinet lighting and do not plan to perform any major renovations, don’t be disappointed. The wiring diagrams we show in this article are intended to be used in almost all kitchens and can be installed without visibly damaging the walls. And because we use the inside of the base cabinet for wiring, you don’t even need to enter the basement or attic.
The National Electrical Code requires the protection of plastic sheathed cables (commonly referred to as Romex) in areas that may be subject to abuse. Since we installed the cables on the back of the under cabinet lighting led, the pots and pots may touch the cables, so we chose a safe way and laid the cables inside flexible steel conduits (called “flex”). We will show you how to cut and install the flex, and then how to pass the cable through it. If the plastic-sheathed cable can be pulled up in the cabinet or behind the drawer, a conduit may not be needed. Ask your local electrical inspector which method is acceptable.
Even if the wiring is simple.
You still have to connect the power supply to provide 120 volts for the hard wiring under the under cabinet lighting led. We will tell you how to find the right circuit. However, if you are not satisfied with this part of the work, you can consider hiring an electrician to supply power to the junction box (Figure A), and then follow Figures A and B and photos to complete the rest of the wiring yourself. In either case, please contact your local construction department to see what type of electrical permit and what inspections are required.
It is estimated that it will take a day to run the flexible cord, pull in the cable with the plastic sheath, and install the light under the cabinet. In addition to the standard hand tools, you also need a voltage tester with 1/2 inch voltage, wire strippers, hacksaw, and electric drill. And 1-1/8 inch spade drill bit. If you plan to install the switch on a tile back-splash like ours, please buy a glass drill bit to cut the switch hole. Otherwise, a sharp keyhole saw (photo 2) will be used to cut the holes for the new switch and the manholes on the back of the under cabinet lighting led. All these tools are available in hardware stores or home centers.
Figure A: Wiring under cabinet lighting led
- Under the cabinet lighting plan
The horizontal wiring is hidden at the back of the lower led under cabinet lighting. The light that leads vertically to the lamp passes through the stud cavity.
Figure B: Connection at the junction box
- Lighting wiring diagram under cabinet
- Handyman family
Connect the power supply to the switch and from the switch to the live wire (black) and then to the light.
Buy led under cabinet lighting
The top lamps we are installing use low-pressure xenon bulbs.
The price of these lamps is about 20% higher than similar halogen lamps. But xenon bulbs have a lifespan many times longer, burn cooler, and do not require special treatment like halogen bulbs. Each of our lamps has a built-in electronic transformer that is used to power the low-voltage xenon bulb, but is powered by a standard 120 volt current. Xenon bulbs are dilemma, but require special electronic dimmers. Basic fluorescent lights are much cheaper, but usually cannot be dimmed. The wiring method we show is suitable for any 120-volt led under cabinet lighting.
Plan to install a row of continuous lights to achieve the most even distribution of light. Certain types of led under cabinet lighting have plug-in connectors to connect the lights end to end. Other wires, such as the wires we are using, can be connected by extending the wires from one fixture to another. Connect them together according to the manufacturer’s instructions.
Calculate box size
To calculate the minimum box size required by the National Electrical Code, please add: for each live and neutral wire entering the box, add 1; for all combined ground wires, add 1; Its all combined clamps, add 1 ; For each device (switch or socket), add 2 but it is usually not installed in the box). Multiply this number by 14-gauge metal by 2, and use 12-gauge wire by 2.25 to get the smallest box volume (in cubic inches). A label is printed on the inside of the plastic box.
caveat! If you are using aluminum wire, please call a professional who is certified to use it. The wiring is dark gray instead of the dark orange of copper.
There are many potential power sources, but unfortunately, electrical regulations prohibit any connection to “dedicated” circuits. This excludes the 20 amp small electrical circuit in the kitchen (cannot use the workbench power socket) or dining room, 20 amp laundry room circuit and 20 amp bathroom circuit. If the live wire, neutral wire and ground wire of the light switch box can be connected to the power supply. Other possibilities include a junction box in the basement or a socket on the other side of the wall led under cabinet lighting (we use aisle sockets). Make sure there is a protected route to connect the cable from the power source of your choice to the base cabinet.
Even if the new under-cabinet lights don’t require much power.
Make sure they don’t overload existing circuits. This process is cumbersome and may take several hours, but it is a necessary step for safe work. This is how you do it. In order to determine whether the circuit you want to use can handle the extra lights without causing overload, first turn off the circuit in the motherboard. Then walk through the house and turn on the lights and other electrical appliances. Add all the power that does not occur (that is, all the power on the circuit).
Then add the lighting power you want to add. For a 15-amp circuit, we recommend a maximum connected load of 1,440 watts. And for a 20-amp circuit. The recommended maximum connected load is 1,920 watts. (The circuit amperage is marked on the circuit breaker or fuse.) If the total wattage exceeds these amounts, look for another circuit. If you are confused, please call a licensed electrician to help you complete this section.
Finally, check to make sure that the electrical box is large enough to make the wires you want to include secure (see “Determining Box Size”). If there are too few cases, larger cases can be used instead.
After selecting the electrical box to be connected, turn off the electrical switch or unscrew the circuit breaker of the control circuit. Some electrical boxes contain multiple circuits. Before completing any work in the crate, use a non-contact voltage analyzer to test all wires to make sure they are “dead”.
Plan wiring route
The first step is to figure out which base you want to join. To find the sockets in the base office, throw 8 inches. Insert a length of jacket holder in your drill bit and drill an opening near the exit and behind the office. Mark a 12 inch at that point. Place the squares and cut out an entrance behind the distribution box (photo 2).
The sharp keyhole saw is excellent.
Point out to keep the slice shallow to prevent touching the wire or pipe line. Next, screw the intersection box to the back of the under cabinet lighting just below the angle of the led under cabinet lighting (photo 3). The 4 x 4 x 2-1/8 inch deep metal box we are using is large enough to hold down the wires that appear. If your business needs more links, determine the size of the box you need, and buy a larger junction box if it’s important.
Drill a 1-1/8 inch opening on the inning side.
And then drill in 1/2 inch. For each light or light assembly, switch and force flexible bending (Photo 4 and Figure A). Allow an additional 6 inches of bend into the divider. The curved section end is reamed to drain the burrs, and curved connectors are introduced on the two finishes.
You may need to pull the oven off the divider or slide the dishwasher out so that you can place the Flex behind them. Explain again the places that will not interfere when sliding the machine into the correct position again. If you cannot reach the corner, you may need to cut an entrance on the side of the bureau for the bending operation. If necessary, the link can be routed through the attic or storm cellar. To pass through areas not related to the base led under cabinet lighting.
Push or use a fish strap to link the plastic sheath through the bend (photos 7 and 8).
Allow an additional 12 inches of link at the intersection and a few feet away from where the link should end. Connections that waste a few feet are much smarter than ending.
After manipulating the link into the flexible device, drill holes in the back of the base station (photo 8) and the base of the divider station (photos 8 and 10), and cut the gap of the switch (photo 11). Phish links to these areas (photo 8). The fishing technique we showed in photo 8 is also applicable to protected dividers. You only need to work a little harder to fix the fish belt with the bracket.
Using your saw, expand the hole from the back of the opening to the edge, making it more likely to be suitable for bending. Drive the end of the bending wire into the divider and use a cable tie to fix the bending wire at each 4-1/2 feet, 12 inches inside each opening in the bureau and 12 inches inside the intersecting box (photo 6).
Install fixtures and make final connections
The final advancement is to install and connect the lighting equipment and connect the wires to the switch box, socket box and cross box. Photos 13 and 14 and Figure B show the method of operation. Use a non-contact voltage analyzer to check the wires in the socket box. Twice to ensure that the force is removed before the last association in this slat.
Where possible, introduce dimmers instead of conventional switches. Check with the manufacturer if you need a conventional dimmer, an attractive dimmer or an electronic dimmer. At that time, please follow the guidelines for bundling dimmers.
As shown in Figure B, when you connect the wires to the intersection box. Screw the metal extension plate to the intersection box. At that point, close the opening at the back of the game by screwing in a square. Its 1/4 inch larger than the average area. Press the wood against the opening.
- Find power
- Lighting switch
Find a closed door at the exit on the partition opposite to the back of the under counter lighting. And insert the radio (right). Discover the circuit by killing the circuit breaker until the radio turns off.
- Prompt for the next lighting circuit breaker
- Plug the radio into a power outlet, please listen now
Drill the starter gap and cut to 12 inches long. The gap behind the bureau increases easy access to the socket (power supply). Keep the slices shallow to avoid scratching the wires. If you want to repair under counter lighting with paint, check out the best paint for kitchen cabinets.
The third stage
- Includes initial junction box
- Illuminated intersection
Connect the flexible connector to the intersecting box as shown in your layout (Figure An), and then tighten it to the back of the office. Adjust the joint so that the screw attracts attention.
- Local lighting flexible connector
- Attach a flexible connector to each flexible wire.
- Horizontal drilling
- Under slight drilling clearance
Drill a 1-1/8 inch gap on the bureau side and feed flexibility from the metal intersecting box to each switch and lighting area.
- Reduce bending
- Cutting dance metal
Emboss the curved part and cut it to the desired length with a hacksaw. Manufacturing emerging cutting aids.
- Plug the power supply into the junction box
- Local lighting wiring
Using a link from the socket (power supply) to the junction box, peel off the 12-inch sheath at each end. Pack it within 8 inches of the box.
- Fishing cable
- Bureau lighting cable
Get the link through flex. Use fish tape for long-term operation. Leave a lot of links to run the divider to the lighting device.
- Pull the wire to the closet
- Under the line
Drill a 1/2 inch. Open under the divider and push in the fish belt. Drill a 1-1/8 inch gap between the base and divider, then push in a metal jacket holder to get the fish tape. Pull down the fish tape, attach the link and pull it up.
- Connection fixture
- Safe installation under office lighting
Use the link buckle to fix the link to the installation. Connect the wires according to the manufacturer’s guidelines.
- Add lamps to the cabinet
- Off-office lighting connection device
Fix the installation to the base of the office with screws, and connect the link to the office with standard staples and No. 4 sheet metal screws.
- Cut the switch hole
- Switch box glass drill
Print the switch box configuration file on the rear bezel. Use a glass drill to drill a certain degree of opening, and then cut away the tiles and wall panels.
- Illuminated glass drill bit
- Drill through the tiles with a glass drill
- Under the bureau lighting switch box
Drive the link into the redesigned box and install it in the divider.
- Wired dimmer
- Downward dimmer switch
Connect the dimmer or switch according to the manufacturer’s instructions. Cover the wires in the housing, and fix the dimmer and expansion board.
- Complete wiring
- New wires for under-office lighting
Associate the new wire with the current wire in the outlet box, dark to dark (hot), white to white (non-partisan), and bare ground wire. Reinstall the socket under cabinet lighting.